First thing I would do is to check with city hall to see what you will need for a permit or license for your business.
You should also have a fire marshal and building inspector perform a safety check, and act on their advice.
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Check out your competition to see what type of service they offer.
If possible...Try to specialize in what they do not offer.
In my area, there are at lease five companies that strip and refinish furniture.
I checked them all out, and found that no one offered extensive repairs, so I specialize in repairs, like making parts, duplicating spindles reconstructing and reinforcing couch frames.
As far as Upholstering... eight way spring tying is becoming a lost art, so I also specialize in that too.
Over the years I discovered that not to many people know how to re glue chairs and guarantee them to last.
So...... I studied joint and chair construction a number of years back, and I specialized in that too, and I don't get any chairs back.
I also discovered that most businesses dipped their furniture.
So..... I offer hand stripping.
Not many people in my area know how to touch up furniture, so I made it my business to learn every thing I could on the subject.
An other lost art is caning and rushing chairs.
It is very time consuming, and when you first start you will make mistakes, but practice makes perfect.....Yes... I took the time to learn this lost art too, and I offer this service to my customers also.
You can make from $80.00 to $150.00 rushing or caning one chair.
After you gain experience, you can easily do two chairs per day.
Training tapes are available, or check out my Online Clinic.
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Advertising
Place test ads in local papers such as Penney Saver
Place Business card on bulletin boards at local super markets or any where that has bulletin boards.
Hand out Fliers or Business Cards to relatives and friends.
Have a magnetic sign made and place on your car or truck.
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Commercial or residential Work
Commercial Work
This is where the money is BUT you may find you will be making less money per piece.
Outlets are Restraints, Hotels, Motels, Moving Companies, Antique Dealers, Schools, Churches, Hospitals, Doctors, Lawyers, Dentist.
The list is endless....
There is also good money in onsite touch up.
To learn more about this trade, check out
http://wwwmohawkfinishing.com/
Get their training tapes, or attend their classes.
Residential Work
You won't get as much work, BUT the money will be better.
Pick up and Delivery
Optional
If you need the work and money go after it.
When I first started I offered pick up and delivery.
After 20 or so years in the business, and collecting social security I prefer to stay in the shop and let them come to me.
I started out Refinishing Kitchen Cabinets and Interior Wood work, and did some commercial work.
The money was good, but today my kids are all grown up, so I can slow down and enjoy life.
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Working down your cellar requires extra safety precautions.
Re gluing chairs or making parts down your cellar is one thing.
But when it comes to applying your finish, that's an other story.
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Separate Work shop or building:
I would seal the walls, ceiling and floor.
WHY? ... It would make it a lot easier to clean up.
And of course.... Insulating everything would save on heat.
An explosion proof fan is a must, unless you use only water base stain and finishing products.
Cross ventilation is also recommended.
A spray booth is also recommended.
If you can't afford one, you can set up one with heavy plastic.
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I would start part time, and purchase your supplies as you need them.
Working part time for a local shop would be a good idea.
I would also find a mentor...
If you can't find one, I am available.
Join my Online Clinic and you can begin learning right away.
For more info.click below.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
No one has all the answers, plus...Learning through trial and error is not the way to go...
When you need help...You will have someone to turn to..
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Pricing your work:
Check out what your competitors charge, and use that as a guide line.
Note: I would charge less when first starting out.
This will bring in more work.
Charge more as you gain more experience...
You can use the link below as a guide
http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/prices.htm
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Tools and supplies:
Buy the best you can afford...
Strippers:
Purchase non flammable Simi paste strippers for hand stripping.
I purchase my strippers from Benco.
I have been using their strippers for over 15 years, and it's one of the best available.
Liquid Stripper:
Liquid Stripper is fine for dip tanks, but not meant to be used for hand stripping.
Dip Tanks:
If you can afford it, get a cold tank.
Cold Tanks are safe to use, BUT it takes a lot of stripper to fill them
Hot tanks can cause more harm then good.
Hot tanks have been known to loosen glue joints and veneer.
Glues:
White Glue
It's a matter of preference.
I use white glue at times on joints that show.
I find that white glue is easier to color.
Yellow Glue:
I use only on concealed joints.
Yellow glue is more difficult to color.
Gorilla Glue:
I use on loose fitting joints.
Hide Glue:
I'll use only on Antiques.
Clamps:
You will find that at times you never have enough of them.
Black Iron Pipe Clamps 3/4 inch diameter.
Get them all threaded both ends and get the connectors and pads too.
When you need a longer clamp, just tread in an other pipe.
Don't get aluminum...Them bend...
You can get your black iron pipes at your local hardware store.
Nylon Web Clamps.
Buy the longest length they have.
Nylon Web Clamps are indestructible, and will last forever.
Jorgensen Parallel Clamps
Buy as you need them.
Spring Clamps:
Buy as you need them.
Band Saw:
If you don't have one, I would recommend a delta.
Get a 1/2 inch re saw blade, it will come in handy.
Sanders:
Porter Cable Block Sander for finish work.
You can't beat them.
Orbital Sander:
With the self sticking sanding disk.
Sand Paper
Aluminum Oxide - Open Coat
Set of Forstner Bits
or
Flat Bottom Bits
Set of high speed drill bits
3/8 Reversible Drill
Cabinet Scrappers
I highly recommend them
They can be used to smooth wood
and to remove glue.
Plumbers wire brushers.
They use them to clean copper pipe.
I use them to clean glue sockets.
Stains
I recommend Old Masters or Mohawk Brands.
Oil Base Wipe On Stains are easier to use
and they are forgiving.
Penetrating Stains are more difficult to use.
Many times they require a wood conditioner to help control the penetration.
Water Base Stains
are required under water base sealers and top coats.
They are easy to use, but they may also require a wood conditioner to control the penetration.
Sanding Sealers.
Locks in the color and helps prepare the surface for your top coats.
They are easy to sand, and you must pick up the sanding dust with a tack cloth, before applying your top coats.
Sanding Sealers are a matter of preference.
I prefer to use thin layer of my top coat as my sealer.
The disadvantage of this technique is it's a lot harder to sand.
The advantage is that it produces a much harder finish.
Top Coats
There sure are plenty of different brands out there to pick from.
The main thing is to stay with the same manufacture as the stain you decide to use, until you gain experience.
Follow all manufactures directions.
Seek advice from the person your buying from.
Preparing for finishing
It's a good idea to vacuum every thing the day before you finish.
Run an exhaust fan while your vacuuming.
The next day, run a tack cloth over all your pieces before you apply your finish. plus cover every thing with plastic drop cloths, including the floor.
Shellac
Doesn't offer much protecting, and is used on pieces that do not get much use. Shellac will be found on some Antiques.
The best brand I found is the Bulls-Eye Brand.
Bulls-Eye Shellac has a shelf life of three years.
Shellac is easy to use and can be wiped on, brushed on or sprayed.
The product comes in Clear and Amber.
Shellac can be removed and thinned using Denatured Alcohol.
Denatured Alcohol is also used to clean your brushes.
Shellac can be applied over most finishes.
Oil
Tung Oil - Teak Oil - Watco Danish Oil
Any other oils like the ones I have mentioned do not offer much protection. The oils go into the wood instead of laying on the surface.
You will have to apply many coats to get results, depending on the wood that it is used on. To use you just wipe it on with a cloth. Besides being easy to use, if you get a scratch you just apply more oil and the scratch becomes inconspicuous.
The oil will dry out in time and will require an other application.
Poly - Wipe On
Great Product - BUT you need to apply many THIN coats.
Pay close attention and have a DRY Brush handy to catch any drips or runs. You can also wipe on Shellac Lacquer or Varnish by thinning it out.
Poly - Brush on
If your Brushing on Poly get your self the best brush money can buy, and clean it properly, and it will last a long time.
New brushes must be flagged before using.
To flag the brush, drag the tip of the brush against your hand to remove any loose bristles.
A Brush made of badger bristles with split ends would be a good choice.
Once again - Keep a dry brush handy to catch runs and drips.
When your brushing of a finish, spread out your finish as far as it will go, before loading up your brush again.
Stir the finish, do not shake the can. Shaking the can will create bubbles which will transfer to your finish.
Stick the brush only 1/2 inch into the container and tap the brush against the side of the container to remove excess finish.
Start in the middle of a section and work toward the ends.
Once you have full coverage, drag your brush lightly with the grain to help even out the finish...This is called tipping...
If your working with a slow drying finish you can box your finish.
To box your finish you apply the finish against the grain then follow by going with the grain. this technique will insure full coverage.
The trick to obtaining a smooth finish is to apply many thin coats.
Thin coats are easier to sand and they dry faster.
By allowing your finish to dry faster you don't give any dust much of a chance to settle and dry on your wet finished surface.
Let your coats dry long enough before you sand them or you will scratch the surface. I would wait the recommended time specified by the manufacture.
As you apply more coats, there will be less sanding required.
The last coat should be applied a little lighter and will require very little if any sanding.
Handle your pieces carefully, because finger prints will transfer to your surface, and removing them can be difficult.
Apply your finish to your small pieces first.
Go all the way with this first piece.
When you are done applying ALL your coats to your first piece, remove it to a far corner, out of harms way.
Do your large piece last.
Go all the way and when your done applying your last coat, let it sit there undisturbed till the next day.
Spraying Your Finish
Most information contained under brushing on a finish also holds true for spraying a finish.
The type,brand,and manufacture of a spray gun is a matter of preference.
Practice makes perfect.
I have used a few different types, and brands, and I can tell you that the most important thing I found is that you have some one to talk to when you have questions. Keep that in mind and you will make out no matter what you decide to purchase.
Separate compressor or self contained ??
Pressure Pot or Cup???
I prefer a pressure pot with a separate compressor.
A separate compressor allows me to use air tools.
A pressure pot stays full for a whole day of spraying.
I am presently using a H.V.L.P Accuspray spray gun.
The present finish I am spraying is a water base finish called
Hydrocote's Resisthane.
More info. on these products can be found on line at
http://www.highlandhardware.com/
I spray from 4 to 8 LIGHT coats.
Turn Table
Although not required....It sure makes it easier.
You can make your own as I did using a lazy susan, and some 3/4 inch plywood. By having your work on a turn table you stand in one place and just turn your work. This helps eliminate shadows.
Light Source
Very important to see what your doing.
I use two or three portable quart lights, one is placed up high in the back of me, and the other two are placed in the back and to both sides of me.
You never have enough light.
Thickness Planer
If your doing repairs, sooner or later you will need one.
The one I have is a Delta 12 inch.
It has served me well.
I also have a Ryobi stationary drum sander that has the capability to sand a 30 inch piece of wood in two passes.
Check them out. They will save you a lot of time.
Shopsmith Multi Purpose Multi Speed Tool
How good are they???
I have had one since day one.
I highly recommend them.
They are very well made.
Take up very little space.
I use mine to turn spindles, disk sand, drum sand, as a drill press, and for horizontal drilling, plus polishing hardware.
There are many attachments available.
The choice is yours.
Personally I have a separate band saw, and table saw. and routers.
If you follow their maintenance guide lines, it will last your life time.
Check them out at http://www.shopsmith.com/
Touch Up
If your interested in touch up
Contact
http://www.mohawkfinishing.com/
and purchase their training tapes.
Router Tables and accessories
They are available in many styles and sizes.
Here is a company that you're probably not aware of.
Check them out below.
They offer many sizes to pick from.
Ask for their free catalog.
Screws and accessories
I have been using this Company for years.
Check them out
Stripping and Finishing supplies
http://www.woodfinisherssupply.com/
Include - Benco Strippers - Masters Stains etc...
Hardware
Tools and Misc.
Learn Furniture Refinishing Online